Cedar shake siding is the original American wall cladding — thick, hand-split wood that has covered New England saltboxes, Pacific Northwest lodges, and Craftsman bungalows for more than a century. Installed cost runs roughly $8 to $25 per sq ft, and that spread is the whole story: a common Grade 2 shake and a clear-heart Premium shake are the same species and a different product.
It is also the highest-maintenance cladding most homeowners will ever own. Cedar wants a finish refreshed every few years, it can mildew in wet shade, and it burns. Where it suits the house and climate, nothing matches it; where it does not, it is an expensive mistake.
This guide covers shakes versus shingles, the grade system, why species and heartwood decide decay resistance, installed cost, finishing and maintenance, and where cedar belongs.
Shakes vs. Shingles: Two Different Products
Both come from the same cedar logs, but they are made differently and they read differently on the wall. A shake is split from a block along the grain, by hand or with a powered splitter. The face is rough and ridged, the thickness is irregular, and the butt end is thick — commonly 3/4 in. to 1¼ in. Shakes give a wall deep shadow and texture from the street. A shingle is sawn, so its face is smooth and its taper is uniform, typically 3/8 in. to 1/2 in. at the butt.
On sidewalls, most homeowners want the shadow line of a shake. Ask for “rebutted and rejointed” (R&R) shakes: the butts are trimmed to one plane and the edges squared so courses align tightly. Plain “random” shakes belong on rustic outbuildings.
Reading the Grades: Certi-Split and CertiGrade
Shake and shingle quality is sorted by the Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau into Certi-Split (shakes) and CertiGrade (shingles). The grades turn on grain orientation and visible defects. Edge grain is the vertical, weather-facing grain that sheds water; flat grain is the weaker, more porous surface that soaks it up.
Premium is 100% edge grain, clear, with no visible defects. Grade 1 is also 100% edge grain but allows minor growth defects. Grade 2 permits some flat grain and larger knots. Grade 3 is a utility grade for undercoursing and economy work. A separate Blue Label stamp marks preservative-treated shakes rated for ground contact and high-decay settings.
On a wall, grade is mostly an appearance decision — Grade 1 gives a clean, uniform wall, Grade 2 more character for less money. On a roof, it becomes a performance decision.
Species and Heartwood: What Actually Resists Decay
Western red cedar is the standard, and for good reason: it grows in the Pacific Northwest, it is naturally decay-resistant, dimensionally stable, and light. Its resistance comes from extractives concentrated in the heartwood, the darker inner wood. Sapwood has almost none. A “clear heart” shake outlasts a mixed bundle of the same species by a wide margin.
Other species exist. Alaskan yellow cedar is denser and more decay-resistant but harder and pricier. Eastern white cedar is lighter and softer — fine on a protected wall, less durable in the open. Incense cedar, common in California, has poor decay resistance and should not be used untreated. If a bid names only “cedar,” ask which species and what heartwood percentage.
| Grade | Face | Grain allowed | Installed cost / sq ft | Best used for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Premium shake | Hand-split, R&R | 100% edge, clear | $18–$25 | Feature walls, high-end homes |
| Grade 1 shake | Hand-split, R&R | 100% edge | $14–$18 | Full-house re-side |
| Grade 2 shake | Hand-split | Mixed | $10–$14 | Budget whole-house work |
| Grade 3 shake | Hand-split | Utility | $8–$11 | Undercoursing, sheds |
| Grade 1 shingle | Sawn | 100% edge | $12–$16 | Smoother, quieter walls |
Figures are installed and unfinished on a straightforward re-side; add $1.50 to $3 per sq ft for a spray-applied stain.
Finishes: Clear, Stain, or Weathered Gray
Untreated cedar does not stay the honey color you see at the lumberyard. Within a year it darkens, then fades through brown to silver-gray over 12 to 18 months as UV breaks down the surface lignin. That gray is stable and needs nothing — but in humid shade the same damp surface grows mildew, which shows as dark streaks and green-black patches.
Three routes. Clear finish shows the most grain and the least UV protection, needing a recoat every 2 to 3 years. Semi-transparent stain is the sweet spot: it tints the wood, blocks UV, and lasts 3 to 5 years. Solid-color stain hides the grain but lasts 5 to 7 years and covers tannin bleed. Whichever you choose, back-prime or back-stain every shake before it goes up — sealing the hidden face slows moisture movement, reduces cupping, and stops the tannin streaks that run down the wall.
Use stainless or hot-dip galvanized nails; electro-galvanized and bare steel corrode against cedar’s extractives and leave rust streaks.
Installation Essentials That Decide Longevity
Cedar is forgiving to look at and unforgiving to install badly. Nail with two fasteners per shake, one at each edge, about 1 in. above the butt line, driven flush — never countersunk, so the wood can still move. Leave 1/8 to 1/4 in. gaps between shakes for expansion; butting them tight causes buckling. Keep a weather-resistive barrier behind the shakes and, ideally, a rain-screen gap — vertical furring that lets the wall drain and dry behind the cladding. Hold the bottom course 6 to 8 in. above grade and 2 in. above any flashing.
Field note: If a bid lists “cedar shakes” with no grade, species, or thickness, assume Grade 2 or 3 mixed-species material. Fine for a shed; not for a house you plan to keep. Ask to see the grade stamp on the bundle — Certi-Split and CertiGrade labels travel with the product, and a supplier who cannot produce them is guessing.
Regional Fit: Where Cedar Belongs
Cedar is native to the Pacific Northwest, where it thrives; the cool, wet climate is what it evolved in, provided the wall can dry. The Northeast is cedar’s spiritual home — shake siding is period-correct on Capes, colonials, and shingle-style homes. Coastal markets work well too, with stainless fasteners and a stain that resists salt and UV.
Two regions fight back. The humid Southeast — the Gulf Coast, Florida, the Carolinas — keeps a wall wet long enough for mildew and decay to take hold. Wildfire zones are the wrong place for it entirely: cedar is combustible, and many insurers and code jurisdictions restrict wood cladding in high fire-hazard areas. In the wildland-urban interface, look at metal siding or fiber cement instead.
Cedar vs. Fiber Cement Shake-Look
Fiber cement shake profiles are cedar’s main competitor, and the comparison is honest. Fiber cement delivers a similar shadow-line look, holds a factory finish for about 15 years, resists fire, and needs almost no maintenance — at a similar or lower installed cost. What it lacks is depth: the texture is molded, so up close it reads flat, and it will not weather to silver-gray. Cedar insulates slightly better and can be repaired one shake at a time.
If you want authentic texture and accept the upkeep, buy cedar. If you want the look with a fraction of the maintenance, buy Hardie board siding in a shake profile. A stone base with cedar above is a classic Craftsman combination — see our guide to stone veneer.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does cedar shake siding last?
A well-installed, finished western red cedar wall typically gives 30 to 50 years, and clear-heart shakes on a well-drained, sheltered wall can run longer. Unfinished cedar in wet, shaded conditions can start to decay within a decade. Heartwood content, the drainage detail behind the shakes, and whether the finish was maintained matter most.
How often does cedar siding need to be restained?
Plan on every 3 to 5 years for a semi-transparent stain and every 2 to 3 for a clear finish; solid stains stretch to 5 to 7. Budget the labor before you buy the siding, because a two-story house can run several thousand dollars per cycle.
Does cedar shake siding rot?
Heartwood cedar resists rot; sapwood and wet end grain do not. The failure points are almost always the same — the bottom course too close to grade, a roof-to-wall or deck-to-wall joint with bad flashing, or a wall that never dries because there is no rain screen. Fix the drainage and cedar is durable; ignore it and the shake bottoms go soft.
Is cedar shake siding worth the cost?
If the house is period-correct for it and the climate suits it, yes — nothing else replicates the look. If you want low maintenance, or you live in the humid Southeast or a wildfire zone, put the money into fiber cement or metal instead.
The Bottom Line
Cedar shake siding earns its place on the right house in the right climate: a Craftsman, Cape, or lodge in the Pacific Northwest, the Northeast, or a temperate coastal town, where a semi-transparent stain and a rain-screen detail will carry it for decades. Buy Grade 1 or better western red cedar with high heartwood content, insist on back-priming and stainless or hot-dip galvanized nails, and budget for restaining every 3 to 5 years.
If you want the look without the upkeep, or you are building in the humid Southeast or a fire-hazard zone, choose fiber cement shake or metal instead. Get three local bids, confirm the grade and species in writing, and ask exactly how the wall will drain before you sign anything.
About the author
Daniel Whitfield writes about home exteriors, decor, and seasonal projects for Curb & Canvas. He researches siding, trim, gutter, and home-decor systems using manufacturer specifications, contractor pricing across US markets, and residential building-code requirements, then translates the trade-offs into plain language for homeowners. Read more about our editorial approach.
